Cape Colossal
Try and describe the unique southern African metropolis of Cape Town without
mentioning its imposing Table Mountain backdrop and it would be like describing
an elephant without its trunk.
Even so, the magnificent, often mist enshrouded, cliffs that soar a full
kilometre into the sky, are not the only fascinating feature of this cosmopolitan
enclave nestled comfortably on the far south western tip of the great
African continent. The "Mother City’s" rich history, cultural
and political independence, stunning location and mild climate qualify
Cape Town as one of the world’s truly great cities.
Like
so many African ports, Cape Town began as a strategic and economic colonial
outpost. Ironically, the port was established on the strength of glowing
reports of the bay that reached the opportunistic Dutch East India Company
when one of their vessels, Haerlem, foundered
there in 1647. The attractive, fertile land and largely cooperative,
if somewhat gullible, native "Hottentots" enabled a refreshment
station to be set up in the 1650s to service the many ships plying the
trade routes between Holland and SE Asia.
As a direct result of its location, function and traffic, a startlingly
diverse population gradually evolved, incorporating examples of the many
European, Asian and African cultures that were continually traversing
its busy harbour. Despite South Africa’s turbulent history, Kaapstad
has maintained a relatively stable and racially harmonious constituency.
Its largely liberal inhabitants kept themselves mostly at an arm’s length
from the turmoil and bitterness that swept much of the rest of the province
over the centuries, even if it meant fighting it off at times.
The Afrikaner independence movement was born out of the wider Cape Colony
in 1837. When the mainly farming and god-fearing, Dutch-descended Boers
became disgruntled with liberal British rule, they pushed off to the uncharted
innards of the Transvaal in an act now known as "The Great Trek"
to set up their own republics.
The famous statesman and entrepreneur, Cecil Rhodes, who formed the scholarship
that bears his name, was Prime Minister of the Cape Colony from 1890-96
and died there amid scandal in 1901.
Tourism has certainly become one of the city’s great strengths, drawing
nearly one million visitors per year from around the globe. With a head-spinning
assortment of activities ranging from the mammoth Cape Argus Cycle Classic,
a world class aquarium, Ratanga Junction Theme Park, Newlands International
Sports Arena (mainly cricket and rugby), motor racing at Killarney, water
sports of all kinds plus others like horse-riding, flying and 4WDing.
A day trip around Cape Town is a whirlwind, eye-popping affair as you
venture to pristine beaches and the homes of the Capetonian glitterati
at Camps Bay, through lush verdant forests, past historic naval and fishing
villages like Simon’s Town and Hout Bay, to staggering seaside vistas
that stretch all the way to the Cape of Good Hope.
Short cruises are also popular out of the serene little harbour at Hout
(Wood) Bay, and for less than A$10, you can jump aboard a launch to see
the ludicrous overpopulation of Cape Fur Seals on nearby Duiker Island
that, courtesy of the ample food source, also boasts a healthy representation
of voracious Great Whites. While you are on an aquatic fauna roll, be
sure to visit the little colony of Jackass Penguins near Shelley Beach,
named so no-doubt, for their distinct ass-like outbursts.
For an alternative view of the city, pop out to Robben Island, a short
10 kilometres off the coast. Variously a ship’s larder, insane asylum
and military prison at different times, it once housed Nelson Mandela
and is now a popular stop on the historically persuaded visitor’s itinerary.
No
visit could be considered complete unless one rides the breathtaking revolving
cable car to the top of Table Mountain. Not the tourist doddle it may
appear, the sheer slopes are plagued by sudden and violent windstorms
that are heralded by an ominous siren at the top station. The entire flat
top of the feature can also be quickly enveloped in dense mist and cloud,
locally called the tablecloth, that may appear mystical and surreal
at sea level, but is a damn nuisance when trying to enjoy the view from
atop.
Lucky
day-trippers, not hampered by the aforementioned hazards, can occupy themselves
walking around examining the many rewarding vantage points or observing
the unique flora and fauna. The latter consists mainly of furry little
dassies, several lizard species and feral Himalayan Goats or tahrs.
Adventure-prone types can throw themselves off the summit in the company
of like-minded abseilers in a seemingly suicidal display that really looks
much more dangerous than it is. The better heeled can partake in a helicopter
observation that affords a unique perspective guaranteed to equip any
visitor with ample dinner table yarns to last a lifetime.
After your adrenalin-filled sightseeing, wrap up the day lounging around
the superb Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens. Pleasantly shaded from the late
afternoon sun, this park contains some of the most impressive specimens
of the abundant local flora. Open-air concerts are also a feature of world-class
location.
Shopping:
another inescapable pastime for the modern adventurer is well catered
for in Cape Town. There are all the usual malls and markets, with the
crowning glory unlikely to be surpassed by the Victoria and Alfred (yes,
Alfred) Waterfront where the Gucci-gazers and Versaceophiles are not going
to be disappointed. Be careful not to pay too much for any of the mass-produced
"native" artefacts abundant throughout South Africa and do some
serious homework before taking on the diamond and gem traders that abound
downtown.
Driving is not too arduous around town, but South Africans, both black
and white, are a bit complacent about road safety. Speeding, jaywalking,
drinking and unroadworthy vehicles are too common for anybody’s liking
and the public transport system is pretty ordinary by Australian standards.
Minibus taxis, although cheap, are something of a lottery. The advice
being if you don't like the look of one, don't get in it! The more reliable
operators work out of the major hotels.
On the South African measuring stick, Cape Town is a safe city, but all
the usual precautions apply. Don't walk after dark, especially alone,
and don't carry unnecessary valuables. When driving, lock all your doors
and it is quite acceptable to run a red light late at night rather than
sit vulnerable to carjackers.
In
spite of the tribulations in the rest of the country, Cape Town is experiencing
a healthy renaissance, driven mainly by tourism. Some of the credit must
go to the recently revitalised Cape Town Tourism operation run by the
dynamic Sheryl Ozinsky. Fresh from the complete reorganisation of Cape
Town’s Symphony Orchestra and the creation, from scratch, of the Two Oceans
Aquarium, Ozinsky is applying her trademark zeal to the post of Tourism
Director. "We have to respect each other and the people who visit
our city and truly believe that we all stand to gain from making Cape
Town a safe and attractive place."
Be sure to visit Cape Town Tourism’s plush new location in Burg Street
for the multitude of experiences available.
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Story
by Rod Eime
Photos by Rod Eime and SATOUR
Background image by Runic
Design
[Commissioned
for Honda - The Magazine. Please, no mirroring or reproduction.]
Grab Facts:
Population: around 3 million
Rainfall: 500mm per annum
Temperatures: Summer 16-32, winter 7-18
Best Times to Visit: September/October, April/May
Primary Industries: Fishing, wineries, grain, fruit, farming.
Manufacturing: Oil refining, plastics, textiles
Website: www.cape-town.org
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